Introduction
The rose, a symbol of beauty and elegance, is a winter seasonal flower. However, it is now cultivated year-round. Due to its color, fragrance, delicacy, and beauty, the rose is called the queen of flowers. It is the most beloved flower of flower enthusiasts. Roses adapt easily to various climates in different countries, which is why roses are grown to some extent all year round in almost every country. Roses are commonly used as cut flowers. They are also unmatched for decorating social and religious events, gardens, lawns, pots, and balconies. Roses are also used in the perfume industry.
| Climate and Soil:
Roses are flowers of temperate and subtropical regions. Excessive heat and humidity are not suitable for roses. A temperature of 22-30°C, relative humidity of 85%, and an average annual rainfall of 100-125 cm are ideal for rose cultivation. Fertile, well-drained loamy soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5 is best for roses. The quality of flowers largely depends on sunlight, with morning sunlight being more effective than afternoon sunlight.
| Varieties:
There are many varieties of roses worldwide. Some varieties cultivated in India include Miranda, Papa Meilland, Double Delight, Taj Mahal, Paradise, Blue Moon, Montezuma, Tata Center, City of Belfast, etc.
| Planting Time:
In India, the ideal time for planting rose saplings is from October to February.
| Propagation:
Roses are usually propagated through seeds, cuttings, air layering, and budding. Seed propagation is only used in breeding or crop improvement programs. The main method of producing new plants is budding, which is used for commercial flower production. The bud of the desired variety is placed onto a suitable rootstock. The rootstock plays a vital role in the plant’s vigor, productivity, flower quality, shrub longevity, disease resistance, and adaptability to soil and climate. Rootstock cuttings (pencil-sized) are prepared at the end of summer and planted in rows in nurseries at a distance of 25-30 cm. After about six months, these cuttings develop suitable stems for budding. Primarily, T-budding is done in roses.
| Growing Roses in Pots
Location of Pots:
The pots should be placed in open, well-ventilated areas where they can receive morning sunlight and at least 6-8 hours of sunlight. Afternoon sunlight (especially in summer) should be avoided, as it can make the flower color fade. Ensure that the rose plant receives light from all directions. Otherwise, the plant will grow only towards the light source. For this reason, the pot should be rotated occasionally.To protect the potted rose plant from sunlight, periodically rotating the pot between sun and shade will keep the plant healthy, and flowers will last longer.
| Soil Preparation:
Clay soil is not good for rose cultivation. For pots, prepare the soil mixture in such a way that it remains loose and drains well. Mix 1 part loam, 3 parts cow dung or compost, 1 part leaf compost, and half part sand (preferably river sand) with a handful of mustard cake and a spoonful of lime. Keep this mixture in a 20 cm (8-inch) pot for a month, turning the soil occasionally with water. This improves the soil mixture. Many have found good results by adding used tea leaves to the mixture. Place broken pieces of bricks or earthenware at the bottom of the pot to aid in water drainage.
| Pot Size:
The size of the pot depends on the rose variety. Small varieties do well in a 20 cm (8-inch) pot, while larger varieties need a 30 cm (12-inch) or bigger pot. Transplanting the plant to a larger pot after the first year will yield more flowers.
| Planting Time in Pots:
Rose saplings can be planted in pots any time of the year. However, September-October and January-February are the best times for planting, as this ensures longer flowering, ease of care, and less pest attack.
| Sapling Collection:
Healthy saplings should be collected, ensuring the soil around the roots remains intact. Avoid plants with exposed roots. Collect from reliable and well-known nurseries, and seek advice from experienced individuals if needed.
| Planting in Pots:
Saplings or budded plants are available in polybags or small earthen pots. If the sapling is in a pot, remove it with the entire soil intact to avoid root damage. Let the moist soil dry a bit before planting. Prune unnecessary, old, or dead branches before planting. Place the sapling in the center of the pot, add compost on top, and press the soil lightly. Ensure the budding node remains above the soil.
| Watering:
Water the pot at least 2-3 times after planting. Protect the young plant from intense sunlight or rain. Gradually increase sunlight exposure from 3-4 hours to 7-8 hours. Avoid waterlogging at the base of the plant. During the sprouting of young leaves and buds, water in the morning and evening, and spray water on the entire plant using a sprinkler.
| Fertilizer Application:
Once the plant is established, start fertilizing 15 days to a month later. At the end of winter (late March or early April), remove the top 8-10 cm of soil in the pot and refill with rotted manure and loose soil. Cover with straw or leaves to protect roots from intense summer heat. After pruning in winter, apply 3 handfuls of powdered manure and 1 handful of steamed bone meal per pot. Apply bone meal monthly throughout the winter. Foliar sprays and leaf fertilizers are increasingly popular for better rose flowers.
| Foliar Spray Preparation:
Mix several chemical fertilizers, and spray before 8 a.m. on sunny winter mornings. Prepare two types of foliar fertilizers—one for overall plant health and flower quality and the other for trace elements. Mix 10 grams of urea, 10 grams of diammonium sulfate, and 10 grams of dipotassium phosphate in 10 liters of water to prepare the solution. For trace elements, mix 20 grams of magnesium sulfate, 15 grams of manganese sulfate, 10 grams of ferrous sulfate, and 5 grams of borax. Dissolve 2 grams of this mixture in 1 liter of water and spray. Both fertilizers can be mixed with pesticides but should not be mixed together. Apply foliar fertilizer to both sides of the leaves. Use liquid fertilizer year-round for potted roses.
| Lime Water Application:
Mix 1 tablespoon of powdered lime in 1 liter of clean water, strain it through a thin cloth, and apply it every 3 months. For 15 days after applying lime water, do not use any other fertilizer and only water the plant.
Pruning: Regular pruning is necessary to remove dead and diseased branches, give the plant a suitable shape, ensure each branch flowers, and allow necessary sunlight. Roses are bush-type plants with extensive branching. Prune the plant immediately after it finishes blooming. Regular pruning results in larger and more abundant flowers. October-November, after the monsoon, is a good time for pruning. Generally, branches should be pruned, leaving them about 20-25 cm (8-10 inches) long. Prune the branches carefully to avoid crushing or tearing; a sharp knife should be used. White, yellow, light-yellow, and bi-colored rose varieties require light pruning, while red roses require heavier pruning. Dieback disease may occur after pruning, so it is necessary to apply both insecticide and fungicide before and after pruning.
Pest and Disease Control: Immediately kill caterpillars or any other harmful insects upon sight. Red spider mites and dieback disease are severe threats. If waterlogging occurs due to irrigation, use an iron rod to create drainage by piercing the soil in the pot. Do this carefully to avoid root damage. Before each watering, loosen the soil more around the edges of the pot and less in the middle.
Summer Care: If pots are placed on the roof or a concrete surface, lay a thick layer of straw, place bricks or wooden pieces on it, and then keep the pots on top. During intense heat, avoid watering during the day and instead water the pots at night (after 8 PM) when the temperature cools down. At this time, the water temperature roughly aligns with the ambient temperature.
Monsoon Care: During the monsoon, remove the straw and bricks from under the pots and place them directly on the roof or a hard surface. Prepare to protect the pots and plants from storms. Shape the soil in the pot into a cone, elevated in the center, to prevent waterlogging. Remove excess soil after the monsoon.
Preparing for Exhibition Flowers: Select high-quality rose varieties during the monsoon and plant them in pots for exhibitions. Ensure regular watering and fertilization so the plant produces lush leaves and large blooms. Prune the plant carefully about two and a half months before the exhibition date. Pruning around mid-November results in blooming in February. Occasionally prune young branches to make the plant bushier. Leave two buds on each branch and remove the rest to ensure larger blooms. If buds appear prematurely, pinch them off. To enhance flower vibrancy, dissolve 25 grams of iron sulfate in 4 liters of water and apply to the flowers. One week before the exhibition, place the pots in a shaded area to protect the petals from intense midday sun.
Rose Cultivation on Land:
Soil, Hole, and Bed Preparation: Choose a high, level site with plenty of sunlight and open air for rose cultivation. Dig or plow the soil deeply to turn it over. Remove weeds, stones, and other debris, and repeatedly cultivate the soil to make it loose, soft, and level. For large gardens, prepare beds just before the monsoon in May-June so the compost and other materials decompose, making the beds ready for planting in October. Ensure proper drainage to prevent waterlogging around the beds. For small gardens, beds can be prepared at least 3 weeks before planting. If the weather is dry, water the bed to help decompose the compost and organic fertilizers, making it suitable for planting.
After preparing the bed, dig holes at different distances for different varieties: 0.5 meters for dwarf Polyantha, 0.65 meters for Floribunda and China, 1 meter for Hybrid Tea, 1.5 meters for Hybrid Perpetual, Mon and Damask, and Tea, 2.0 meters for Noisette, and 2.5 meters for climbing roses. Plant varieties in rows to facilitate fertilizing, watering, and other maintenance tasks. For planting, dig a round hole 1 meter deep and 0.65 meters wide. While digging, set aside the top 20-22 cm of soil and mix it with one-third of the soil amount of well-rotted manure, half a kg of powdered mustard cake, and 18 kg of TSP. Fill the hole, then mix compost, green manure, and other organic fertilizers with the previously set-aside soil and fill the hole, ensuring it’s elevated slightly above the surrounding land.
If immediate planting is needed, apply extra compost or well-rotted manure before planting. After the plants establish, apply mustard cake and chemical fertilizers. When using ample manure, urea may not be necessary. In this case, soak the mustard cake for 4-5 days, mix it with water, and apply around the base of the plant, gently mixing it with soil for 3-4 days.
Planting Saplings:
Usually, rose saplings are kept in plastic bags, so the bag must be torn off when planting the sapling. Then, the plant should be placed in the hole in such a way that the part of the sapling’s root which was previously below the soil remains below the soil after planting. After placing the sapling in the hole, rotten cow dung and a mixture of coarse sand or loamy soil should be spread around the roots. Then, the soil around the base of the plant should be pressed down, and water should be given. After planting, it is necessary to provide shade to protect the plant from the first sun. Once the plant takes root, water should be given according to the type of soil. In sandy soil, water should be given frequently, while in clayey or heavy soil, water should be given every 2–3 days. However, care should be taken to avoid waterlogging.
If the soil is hard around the rose’s roots, water should be used to soften the soil before planting so the roots can grow properly.
For saplings without soil at their roots, they should be soaked in water for 2–3 hours before planting.
When transplanting old plants, first trim the young shoots, dead branches, etc., with a sharp knife or secateurs. Then, dig around the roots and lift the plant in such a way that the fewest number of roots are cut. The plant should be replanted in the hole in the same manner, with plenty of water and at least 2–3 days of shade. It is best not to transplant old plants during the dry, hot summer months.
Interim Care:
Fertilization:
Fertilizer should be applied as needed, but generally, it should be applied once during pruning in October, and again at the end of winter, in March. It is better to apply fertilizer 10-12 days after pruning, rather than during pruning.
Before pruning, 2–3 kg of dried cow dung, 50 g of TSP, and 50 g of potash should be applied. The top 10 cm of soil should be removed, the lower soil loosened, and the fertilizers mixed carefully with the soil so as not to damage the roots.
Manure from ducks, chickens, or pigeons is excellent for roses.
If liquid fertilizers are used, they should be applied on wet soil. Chemical fertilizers are absorbed quickly by plants, but if liquid fertilizer is applied on dry soil, it can harm the plant due to excessive concentration. Therefore, liquid fertilizer should be applied to moist soil, followed by watering.
Sometimes, even with enough fertilizer in the soil, after pruning, the plant’s leaves may not become fresh or the plant may not grow well. In such cases, applying fertilizer through the leaves can yield good results.
Pruning:
Old branches of rose plants do not bloom for a long time. New branches grow from the plant’s base or from old branches every year. Pruning is done to allow these new branches to grow well. The best time to prune is before the blooming season, i.e., in October. Pruning is necessary to help flowers grow larger, to allow new branches to spread properly, and to remove damaged or infected branches.
Pruning should be done with sharp secateurs or special knives. Care should be taken not to crush the branches, as this can lead to fungal diseases in the plant.
There are generally three types of pruning: light pruning, medium pruning, and hard pruning. Light pruning involves cutting one-third of long branches or removing dead and diseased branches. Medium pruning involves cutting branches 30–35 cm above the soil, while hard pruning involves cutting branches 14–20 cm above the soil. The type of pruning depends on the surroundings, the plant, and the soil type. In sandy soil, constant hard pruning can kill the plant. However, if the soil is good and large flowers are needed for display, hard pruning is applicable. In other cases, medium pruning should be done. While flowers from medium pruning may not be very large, there will be more flowers. After pruning, the cut parts should be treated with pruning paint, or else pests and fungal infections can enter through the cuts. For local roses, applying cow dung on the cuts is best.
Pruning paint formula: 1 part pyrethrum or pyriwan, 4 parts copper carbonate, 4 parts red lead, and 5 parts linseed oil.
Pest Control:
The following significant pests attack rose plants:
Rootworms: These pests destroy the old roots before the new roots emerge after cutting.
Control Method: If rootworms are likely present in the soil, the soil can be disinfected with pyrethrum or an appropriate pesticide to prevent an attack.
Red Spider Mites: These pests suck sap from the underside of the leaves, causing the plant to wilt. If you see pin-sized spots on the upper side of the leaves or small webs on the affected leaves and branches, you can identify their attack. When the infestation is severe, the green color fades, and the leaves curl. In some cases, the plant may even die.
Control Method: Red spider mites should be controlled when they are few in number, or they can spread out of control. Any of the following pesticides mixed with water can be sprayed on the underside of the leaves to control the infestation: Kelthen-42, Theovit-80, Ethion-46.5 EC, etc. Red spider mites can also be controlled by spraying cold water directly on the affected areas.
Shaper Beetle: This insect is large and reddish in color. It feeds on the leaves of plants at night, tearing them apart, eats flower petals and stems, and causes significant damage to the growth of saplings. This insect is more prevalent during the monsoon season. It lays its eggs in the soil and damages the roots of rose plants by feeding on them.
Control measures: By treating the soil with pesticides like Pyrifos, Pyriban, or suitable insecticides, the larvae can be killed. The insect can also be controlled by handpicking and killing it at night.
Caterpillar Insects: They feed on the leaves of plants and cause damage.
Control measures: If the insects are fewer and large, they can be easily handpicked and killed. However, if they are small and numerous, spray a contact insecticide like Ripcord 10 EC, 1.1 ml per liter of water. If control is not achieved in one spray, repeat after 2-3 days and spray nearby plants and grass as well.
Digger Weevil: After pruning, these insects sometimes dig tunnels through the cut parts of the branches and make nests inside. This damage leads to fungal infections, and later, dieback symptoms appear.
Control measures: After pruning, apply pruning paint to the cut areas to prevent these insects.
Scale Insects: These insects often attack the bark of older branches of plants, appearing brown in color. They have a hard scale or coating on them. These insects suck sap from the plant, making it weak.
Control measures: When they appear around March, spraying insecticides after pruning will control them. If the number of plants is small, dipping a brush in methylated spirit and rubbing it on the affected branches will remove the insects. Pruning and burning the affected branches will also limit their spread.
Thrips: These insects attack during the hot and dry weather from March to April. They attack in groups and suck the sap from flower buds and young shoots, causing significant damage to the plants. As a result, the buds may either shrivel or fail to bloom. The leaves of young shoots may curl. On inspecting the affected shoots and flowers, both mature and immature thrips can be seen.
Control measures: Cut and burn the affected shoots and flowers. Mix 2.0 grams of Mipsin 75 WP per liter of water and spray weekly for 2-3 weeks, then spray once more after two weeks.
Aphid Insect: The aphid insect feeds on leaves, young shoots, and flowers in January-February, causing damage.
Control measures: To control these insects, mix 2 ml of Malathion per liter of water and spray it every 7-10 days.
Diseases:
Rose plants suffer from fungal and nutritional deficiency diseases. Fungal diseases and their control measures are as follows:
Dieback: Infected branches or stems turn black and start dying from the top. This gradually spreads through the stem down to the roots, eventually killing the entire plant.
Control measures: When dieback starts, cut the infected branches down to the base, apply pruning paint to the cut areas, and burn the infected parts. Clean the pruning shears or knife with spirit before cutting other plants.
Powdery Mildew: At the end of winter, white powder-like spots appear on the leaves. These are fungal pathogens. If the disease is severe, the young leaves and shoots become completely covered with these pathogens, causing buds to fail to open and deteriorate.
Control measures: Cut and burn the affected shoots and leaves, and spray with Hexonazole 5 EC or Dithane M-45 or Indofil M-45.
Flower Harvesting and Management:
For immediate use, rose buds should be cut when they are half-open. For later use, they should be harvested when the rose buds are at the budding stage. When cutting flowers, use a sharp knife to cut a long flower stem with a few leaves attached. The work should be done early in the morning or late in the evening. To extend the lifespan of the flowers, place them in a vase with a solution of 3% sugar and 600 ppm 8-HQC. Packaging of flowers depends on market demand. Many producers supply flower bundles without packaging to nearby local markets. In some cases, the bundles are wrapped in newspaper.
Yield:
The yield of roses primarily depends on the weather and variety. In an ideal production environment, long-stemmed varieties produce 30 flowers per plant each year. During the summer, especially when the quality of flowers and market prices drop, buds are pruned to maintain growth.
